February 2010

Even in February -- typically one of the bleakest months of the year here in the Northeast -- there is abundance and sustenance brought to us from local winter greenhouses and from the past harvest and slaughter season, carefully packed away by thrifty farmers. It is tempting to think that the land around us is entirely dormant, and that Mother Nature has forgotten us, but the foods of winter demonstrate perfectly the forethought and planning that have gone into sustaining us throughout the coldest months of the year.

Wendell Berry has described eating as "an agricultural act." By this he means that the choices we make about the foods we buy and consume directly impact the way the Earth is used, the fortunes of farmers, and the future of the soil, the environment, our health, and the coming generations. By choosing local foods, even in the winter months, we choose to live in harmony with nature, to show tangible appreciation for the farmers who are still working hard to feed us, and to express a willingness to play our small but important roles in the agricultural drama. This choice -- which means enjoying winter squash and hearty stews rather than cool salads and pasta primavera -- brings with it some amount of sacrifice, but also a considerably larger measure of satisfaction.

In the face of seemingly limitless and overwhelming choices about what we may eat at any time, it may be a welcome source of comfort and structure to eat within the parameters of what is readily available at the winter farmers' markets or purchased directly from neighboring farms. With time, we may feel a sense of relief to realize that nature has established a set of guidelines for the foods that will best nourish us and keep our internal thermostats set to warm throughout the coldest part of the year. And instead of depriving us, eating according to these guidelines will serve to strengthen our immune systems, bolster spirits that are flagging from winter darkness, and provide a context for understanding the provision that each season has to offer.

Winter foods for the New York City locavore include an abundance of options for preparing balanced, warming meals throughout the cold months. Most of these foods are from storage and remain delicious and nutritious even months after the harvest.

• winter squash (butternut, acorn, hubbard, delicata, carnival, and other varieties)
• root vegetables (carrots, turnips, beets, Daikon radish, Jerusalem artichokes)
• tubers (sweet potatoes/yams, potatoes of all kinds)
• greenhouse greens (kale, chard, baby bok choy, baby lettuce, broccoli rabe, mache)
• aromatic vegetables (onions, shallots, leeks, garlic – very beneficial to the immune system in winter)
• apples, apples, apples! (saved from the fall harvest)
• mushrooms of all kinds
• meat of all kinds and cuts (beef, pork, lamb, goat, bison, venison, organ meats, bones for soup, rendered fats)
• poultry (chicken, duck) and eggs (less plentiful in winter)
• seafood of all kinds (ask about fresh fish roe, only available during the early part of the year)
• artisanal breads (try whole grain sourdough for the greatest health benefits)
• cheeses galore (from cow’s and goat’s milk) and local dairy products (spring for the raw milk cheese whenever available)
  
• maple syrup, sorghum syrup, and raw honey
• traditionally-preserved, lacto-fermented foods (excellent for helping us properly digest and absorb the heavier, more protein- and fat-rich foods of winter)

December 2009

Now that we are in the midst of the holiday season, this is the perfect time of year to consider some of the food traditions of our families, extended relatives, and ancestors. Particularly if we came recently from another country to the U.S., or if our parents were immigrants themselves, chances are there are many foods we think little of, but which actually play an integral role in our cultural background and which have had important positive effects on our own health and the health of our families.

Since my ancestors came here some time ago and I grew up without any sense of a food culture, I find it fascinating to learn about the food traditions of others. Many people I meet here in Brooklyn can describe quite a few unique foods that played an important part in the daily diet of their home country; however, they often do not realize the significance of these traditions. In this country especially, perhaps because of our history of publicly-enforced assimilation and our reverence for "scientific" studies, most of us have been taught that many food traditions from other countries are at best silly, and at worst downright harmful. (This is why I hear so often about people who have eaten fresh butter all their lives, only to come here and begin dutifully eating margarine, often to the detriment of their health).

I have heard about so many wonderful traditions from the people I've talked to, from summer holidays at the Caspian Sea with fresh caviar for breakfast every morning, to gobbling up "chopped liver" at family gatherings on Jewish holidays (there is no food more nutrient-dense than liver from a pasture-raised animal -- here's the recipe). Some people have mothers who sucked the marrow from lamb bones after making stew, while others remember their grandparents fermenting soybeans (as in natto) or cabbage (as in sauerkraut or kim chee) every year, making their own feta and yogurt from raw milk, or simmering delicious broths from whole fish or leftover bones. Many people grew up with fermented and cultured drinks they hardly even gave a thought to, like kvass, kombucha, and kefir, while others enjoyed homemade sour rye, black bread, whole grain porridges, fresh yellow butter, and raw milk cheeses. My husband's mother, who was born and raised in Mexico, used to lick the cone of lard she carried home from the market to her family! (Lard like this, from pastured pigs who are allowed to be omnivorous as nature intended, is very high in vitamin D, a deficiency we now all seem to have.)

When I learn about these traditions from friends and clients, and exclaim in delight at the sheer nutrient-density of the foods, they are invariably amazed. It is so easy to discount the wisdom of the traditions our parents and grandparents have tried to pass along to us, and to believe that modern packaged foods and supplements will be our key to good health. I will tell you a little secret, though: if your family came to this country and began suddenly having health problems (asthma, allergies, digestive issues, anxiety/depression, decline in eyesight) it is probably because they gave up some of their protective foods (like fermented veggies and drinks, cultured raw dairy, cured meats and fish, cod liver oil, and bone broths), and cut down on their consumption of saturated fats and cholesterol from healthy sources (fish eggs, lard, butter, organ meats, eggs, shellfish, coconut or palm oil, and chicken or duck fat). All these foods, when sourced from the wild and from small grass-based family farms, are absolutely filled with at least one of the following: important fat-soluble vitamins, large amounts of health-supporting minerals, beneficial bacteria, life-giving enzymes, the all-important animal fats and cholesterol that most of us are missing in our daily diets, healing gelatin, and so much more. When we consider the love and care that went into growing, raising, sourcing, and preparing such healthful, sustainable foods, it's easy to see how, when compared to your average packaged dinner, they packed a nutritional wallop! (For more about fat and cholesterol, see the book by Uffe Ravnskov titled Fat and Cholesterol are Good for You.)

This holiday season, if you will have the privilege of attending a big family gathering, take a look around at some of the dishes brought by your older relatives. Try to experience the meal with new appreciation. Ask about the traditions and how the dishes are made. If you're fortunate enough to enjoy local foods, consider how the food on your plate is bringing all the good stuff from the land, the sea, and healthy plants and animals straight to you! And if you're one of the lucky few whose mouth waters at the thought of "chopped liver," dig in and consider yourself blessed.

Dear Mommy-to-Be,

I am thinking of you often these days and re-living the (mostly wonderful) experience of pregnancy every time I do! I can relate to all the things you're going through; after all, it wasn’t that long ago that I was pregnant with Oliver. To me, being pregnant felt special and important, like I was doing something amazing just by breathing and eating and going about my daily activities. I loved feeling Oliver's kicks and hiccups and knowing that he was always safe inside me, no matter where I went. The transition from inside to outside the womb is a remarkable one, for both mother and baby.

Thank you for your question about the books and products I have found the most helpful. As you know, I am always happy to offer thoughtful advice and have been thinking about this for a few weeks. There are of course several books and practical items that I would highly recommend for any new mom; you can add them to your registry or look for gently used versions from Craigslist or from friends with young children.

One of the best things we got as a gift was the Aden & Anais muslin swaddle cloths, along with a copy of The Happiest Baby on the Block, by Dr. Harvey Karp. Oliver really needed the swaddling during nap times for quite a while; without it he would be inconsolable (the book explains why). Learning to swaddle is a challenge, but the more you do it the easier it gets. The book shows one way of swaddling, but once you understand the basic premise and a few general rules, you can find your own way. There was a night when Hugo lost patience with trying to swaddle a wailing Oliver exactly how it’s done in the book and somehow the book ended up in two pieces! We still laugh when we think of it! I think this was before we started co-sleeping, though. More on that when I write again. 

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Dear Mommy-to-be,

I enjoyed your last letter so much! Your stories of the crazy things people have said to you while pregnant really made me laugh, and reminded me of some of my own experiences. I remember one particular walk in Manhattan when I was about 7 months pregnant; within two blocks I had one man warning me not to eat too much of my bagel (I was munching as I walked), and another announcing loudly to everyone around, "Ladies and gentlemen, she is WITH CHILD!" As if there was any need to bring this obvious fact to everyone's attention. The good news is that while you may feel ready to pop, at least (at last!) you are finally in the home stretch! Now comes the time when you can sit back, admire your giant supply of blankets and booties, and think about how things are actually going to go once you bring the baby home from the hospital. I know the tendency is to just worry about the due date, the labor experience, and getting the baby delivered safely, but after all this is over it will suddenly be very clear that adjusting to life with a newborn is a huge challenge--and something most of us are not really prepared for!

So if you're ready, I think this is a good time to pass along some step-by-step advice for getting good sleep with a newborn. I have two main recommendations: 1) since you will be breastfeeding, it will be essential that you learn to nurse in the side-lying position. And 2) I also recommend that you plan on co-sleeping, at least for the first few weeks or months; I guarantee that it will turn your life with a newborn from madness into peace!

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